One jaw dropping day at Totalongo.
I swear I almost cried several times that day at the stunning beauty of this place.
Grutas.
El Tunel
The Tunnel is up those stairs on the left. Curiosity drove me up those stairs as it would most people but I can't recommend it. Sure it's an interesting thing but that tunnel doesn't have an exit at the other end. You feel your way to the back and then back out again the same way. It is hot, dark and difficult to breathe in there. It is the hottest place in the whole park and my claustrophobic instinct kicked in as soon as the light faded.
I took a slow deep breath of hot humid air, told myself there was nothing to be afraid of as long as I moved slowly and felt my way through, still believing there was an exit at the other end, and moved further in. The darkness was broken by people sitting in there with flashlights but not by much. I could see the occasional face and sometimes the contours of the cave. I saw the older couple in front of me coming right back out, already hit by panic attacks, ready to push anyone out of their way in their hurry. Ok. I felt a lot less safe then. We didn't need that kind of action in there. I resolved not to be a part of the problem and kept moving on, slower than ever, feeling everything before committing to a single step, using my hands to keep my head from slamming on any invisible stalactites.
At the end a small group of people were gathered with a flashlight. I think they were park people there to keep people safe. I sincerely hope they were well-paid and traded inside for outside positions every 20 minutes. Time to turn back.
Here we go.
If you ignore this warning and go inside, you should know the water cascading over the entrance is cold. Don't worry about that. You will be glad of it when you come out again.
This is what it looks like inside.
Sometimes you can see something like this.
This is one adventure worth skipping. I would never do it again. Interesting? Sure. Fun? Not a bit.
Las Gruta
Las Gruta is the beautifully warm cavern that must not be missed. Water pours from the ceiling everywhere. One giant waterfall in the center is a bit hard to get to. I managed to push against the current to reach it but it was a good workout. If you approach it from behind, it shoots you out the other side.
More people were waking up and heading in. I would love to return there some day. In fact, I wish everyone could come to Totalango at least once, just not all at once.
Gloria
I'd heard there was another park but nothing about it, just another place that wasn't included with Totalongo. Gloria is a completely different park with its own cabanas and camping areas. Across this bridge, you can get a day pass for 100 pesos and it is well worth the trip. You get completely new perspectives of Gloria, the main waterfall, more chapoteaderos (man made thermal pools along the river) and the magnificent Gloria Canyon.
I didn't have time to stop at every pool but I sure enjoyed this one.
Imagine the best shower of your life.
Follow this cavern to see the other side of Gloria Falls.
Onward and upward.
Snack time.
Water gushes all along the trail. I took those stairs extra carefully but the mineral deposits provide good traction.
This is the verge of Canon de Gloria!
Jump in.
