Friday, October 30, 2009

Curiosity


Between Crucecita and the airport I've noticed some intriguing signs that have kept me wondering. Two Sundays ago, having woken up too late to do anything major, I headed out to find what these places had to offer.

The first was El Faisan. With a sign and a driveway with giant metal "2"s, there was bound to be something of note.

The driveway led to this wall. The moment of truth.

Aw shucks, it seems to be one of those car hotels. I'm not even sure what these places are. You get a walled parking spot with a curtain. I think you just sleep in your own car. Maybe there's a garden hose to wash your vehicle down.
It wasn't a happening spot. No customers. I heard the distant bark of a dog and two women chattering but I didn't see a soul.




There was this massive wreck of a transport truck on the way out of the horseshoe driveway as a reminder to watch everything in front as I continued down the highway. Huatulco is more laid back than Cancun but it's still a party/vacation town and there are a lot of people driving that shouldn't be. We had a fatality around the ADO intersection this week. The previous week, I saw windshield glass spread all over the Pemex intersection on two different mornings. The traffic cop started hanging around there for a while after that. His presence alone makes a huge difference on people's recall of basic driving rules but he can't be everywhere.

Onward. Next stop: Piedra del Moros. This was more promising as there was an actual tourism sign recommending a visit. Mike told me it was a giant rock. Well, on a slow Sunday, a giant rock might be just the thing.


According to the sign, Piedra del Moros is only 5 kilometres off the highway on the same road leading up the mountain to all the cascadas. You pass through several peaceful pueblas on this road. None of them announced their names by signs so watch your odometer and maybe you won't pass it by like I did. That tourism sign on the highway is the last one you're going to see. You have to stop at the right village and ask directions. I realized I'd gone too far after 10 km. Beautiful countryside. Lots of people walking on the road and children playing. I went nice and slow.





There are lots of side roads but I seemed to be having good luck with instinct because I'd find myself in another puebla offering information on the cascadas. Eventually I started climbing the mountain. I could have reached the cascadas before nightfall easily enough but I wasn't prepared to spend the night up there and I turned back after a considerable twisty climb. The road was nowhere near as bad as I'd been told and I know the Italika could make it no problem. As for gas, it's really a one way trip. Downhill is a matter of keeping your hands on the brakes at all times. I'd like to take that trip early some day, check out all the different waterfalls and instead of returning the same way, continue on that road and make the loop back down to the coast somewhere near Barra de la Cruz.


Remember to take your hand off the gas and let momentum carry you across these streams or you might wipe out. For Canadians, the experience is not unlike wet black ice covered with a dusting of powdery snow. The underwater moss is incredibly slick.
I checked the internet at work next day to see if there really is something to see at Piedra del Moros and found somebody's travel blog. Like me, they passed right on by it the first time but they persevered. It really is a large igneous rock.

All that serene countryside washed away the grim reminder from the demolished transport truck and I found myself taking a sharp curve too quickly on the way home. I slowed right down, even with a pushy truck crowding my tail and I had a moment when I really didn't think I was going to make it. The bike wanted to drift right off the road. I was right on the edge, feeling grateful there was no one riding with me, when the danger passed.

I still don't have a helmet yet. The plan so far has simply been not to get in an accident. But I bet that woman who died on Monday and that girl who showed up a month late for school in a neck brace and Michelle when she was rammed off her bicycle by a taxi driver months ago, all had the same plan. It isn't foolproof.

If this brilliant plan backfires before I buy a helmet, Mike already has dibs on my office coffee machine and I suppose he should get the Sony stereo as well. There it is, on the internet, surely as legally binding as a will.

Happy Halloween everybody. Drive safely.

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