The 4th day at Tolantongo was significantly colder. Clouds moved in and the air grew chilly. The water was warm as ever but everyone shivered as soon as they came out
Eventually I moved back to the trail to go to those isolated pozitas. The weekend crowd had arrived and the place was so packed several policemen were working overtime at the main parking lot just to keep people from banging into each other or ending up under the wheels of tour buses, vans or cars.
Back down the trail. Here's hoping the shuttle services kept diverting people from the new ponzitas between the main hotel zones.
Meanwhile, back along the river camping space was getting scarce.
There were more people at the semi-secret ponzita thermal pools but still plenty of space for everyone.
Like most people, once I'd settled into a pool, I didn't want to get out again but as the daylight faded and the clouds moved in, we all eventually had to face the music and the cold chilly air, drying off and getting dressed as fast as humanly possible.
I was still half planning to take a shuttle back to town for more cash and a longer stay but more people kept coming and the air wasn't getting better.
All the same, Tolantongo has to be one of the most incredible places I have ever visited. Even when two young hoods tried to break into my hotel room, staying or going was still up in the air.
Fortunately for me, I had discovered the lock mechanism on my window had been broken on my second night. Realizing that whoever had broken it would likely return occasionally like a trapper inspecting his snares, I found an old piece of lumber nearby to jam in the window frame. They weren't getting in without smashing the window or kicking in the door but, in that very unlikely event, I planned to use the bathroom as a panic room. There were police about but they were concentrated in the camping areas where people were more vulnerable.
It was a bit unnerving to wake up and find two strangers had hopped over the decorative waist high gate to my balcony. I go to bed and rise early and my lights were already off. I expect they'd assumed I was down by the river but I'd been sleeping dead to the world before they woke me. They didn't run when I snapped on the light but they moved on. When I went out for a cigarette, I saw them skulking around the showers and charging stations. Then they walked up the hill past me again and disappeared in the parking lot.
But the next day was so cold! It was definitely time to move on. The steam rising in the cold air says it all.
It's much cleaner of course but the congestion had become a bit too Woodstock for my taste.
Time to roll down that highway. Next stop, Leon.
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