Thursday, May 6, 2010

Miahuatlan Revisited

Some teachers at UNSIS in Miahuatlan applied for tenure recently and three teachers from UMAR Huatulco were invited to observe their classes and review their essays. This is the place where my English teaching career began and I jumped at the chance to see the old place again.

On the day of departure, there were a few snags; nothing seasoned travellers like Caryl, William and I couldn’t handle. Thanks to Mike, we found a new –to-us suburban van service, Huatulco 2000, leaving directly from Crucecita to Oaxaca. They have about ten departures every day. The luxury bus from ADO has one 12 hour late night route once a day and taking that would have meant getting from Oaxaca early in the morning to Miahuatlan without any breakfast.

The Huatulco 2000 route is just as fast as leaving from Pochutla, one hour away. The van leaves the highway at Santa Maria Huatulco, cuts through town and climbs the scariest road I have ever been on. Teachers who use the American Headway texts are all familiar with that picture of the man walking the world’s most dangerous trail. It was a bit like that but in a van. There were places where an entire lane had collapsed from the steep mountain cliff, leaving just enough space for one vehicle and the crumbly edge remaining wasn’t reassuring at all. I doubt it would have been physically possible for a full-sized bus. William asked me to stop talking about it so I cut out commentary like “Wow. It looks like the whole section just dropped down all at once.” Instead, I reminded him that, since I had the breathtaking window seat, I would cushion his fall. Not that it would have saved him. He’d only die slower. No one gets out of a fall like that alive.




The entire trip took no more than 4 hours. We were in Miahuatlan, where UNSIS had arranged for us to stay in the best place in town, Hotel Diamante, long before nightfall. William and I had a double room with a fantastic view of Cerro Gordo. We could even see my old apartment. It’s the tall orange building behind the back of my head. I used to have a panoramic view of the town and the mountains beyond. In rainy season, I could kick my feet up on the balcony and watch distant lightning storms on the horizon every night.


One of the few changes was the decor of La Loma, our favorite restaurant. It used to be open air and some times chilly at night. They've built a glass wall around everything. It's quite cozy now.


I went to bed half-wishing someone would have a birthday so fireworks would go off at 5 AM, just for the nostalgia. I was only feeling sentimental. It was a stupid wish. Well before dawn I was wishing for peace and quiet and a decent night’s sleep. Big trucks dragging heavy mufflers roared up and down the street. Pigs screamed in horror as they faced the void at the hands of a moonlighting butcher. I might have had two hours sleep total.

Luckily we scored coffee almost immediately in the morning. It was pre-sweetened but it did the trick and we had enought time left to take a quick walk through town.







UNSIS provided the best hospitality. They sent a driver to pick us up at the hotel and Will and I were back at the old school where we first met.

There's my old office, the first window to the right of the door.

It was good to see our students were in good hands with the teachers that came after us. It's a great school and the students deserve the best. It was all over in no time. We sat in on some classes, wrote some comments, signed a few documents, made some new friends and it was time to go.


We made it back to Huatulco in time for showers and bed. It felt so good to be back here with our beautiful beaches and modern conveniences. It's so quiet at night too.
Best of luck to all students and teachers from UNSIS. I enjoyed seeing the old place so much.

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